Highlights of Laos

Sunday in Luang Prabang and "Lao Time" has become even more distinct: things will happen, but slowly; they will take a couple of hours more than you may expect; you should just head to a cafe with your book (White Teeth by Zadie Smith - I still think it is one of the best of all time) and relax. So that is what I have been doing today, and now I thought it time I catch up with you all.

I've been back in LP for several days now and leave on the 24th for Hanoi (via Vientiane - it's a 40 minute flight from LP to Vientiane and then on to Hanoi). I'm not looking forward to leaving this place, but I am excited about going to Hanoi and the rest of Viet Nam. LP is a serious competitor for my favourite place on earth. The entire city (town?) is a UNESCO heritage site, with 34 temples. It's local population is 30,000 - that's about half the population of Glenorchy for the Tasmanians reading. Monks and novices walk the streets amongst the cafes, the raw meat and fresh vegetables in the markets, and the tuk-tuk drivers. The people are amazingly friendly. It is beautiful, relaxing, funky and unpretentious.

I've spent my time here at a Lao cooking class, learning even more recipes for you guys back home (but there may be a price attached - I may have to charge $5 for my culinary skills to go to the orphanage here, which has a budget of 20 cents a day, per child, for food - the poor little things are living on nothing but rice). I've been sharing food with the locals; shopping at the night markets; indulging in fantastic lemon tart and tea; practicing my french with the local school kids; drinking Lao coffee; taking loads of photos; and walking up and down and up and down the streets.

This country is incredible, but it is changing rapidly. Suddenly people are coming as "a thing to do" and I have seen the most amazingly arrogant travellers - and this place is changing so quickly to accommodate the whims of these people. I could step onto the soap-box but I'll restrain myself for the moment. What I will say, though, is that if you are keen to see Laos, come here sooner rather than later, and do your best to come here respectfully - please learn a little about the history and the culture, because this place deserves that. Edit - all that being said, I have also met the most amazing, beautiful, generous and considerate people, which is one of the best parts of travel.

The Highlights of Laos have been:

1. The People
2. Slow Boat on the Mekong
3. Hill Tribes
4. The spring roll place in Vientiane
5. The landscape, the plants, the geckos, the buildings, everything
6. The LP nightmarket - ridiculous amounts of money spent
7. Just hanging out, watching the world go by
8. Tubing in Vang Vieng - but that was the only thing to recommend that town
9. Sublime sunsets
10. The food generally - Lao coffee, croissants, baguettes, chicken Laap (stir fried chicken with herbs and spices), fried eggplant and pork, fresh everything, mmmmm.

I'm looking forward to posting from Viet Nam. Love you and miss you, Sophie xx